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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.